Monet's cathedral and the old town of Joan of Arc
Rouen Cathedral is a lesson in how long a great building can keep growing: begun in the 12th century, crowned in the 19th by a cast-iron spire that briefly made it the tallest building in the world. The Flamboyant west front — with its lacework of stone and the famous Butter Tower, funded by dispensations to eat butter in Lent — is the façade Claude Monet painted in more than thirty canvases between 1892 and 1894, at dawn, in fog, in full sun, proving that the subject of a painting could be light itself. One canvas from the series hangs a few streets away in the Musée des Beaux-Arts; inside the cathedral, look for the tomb holding the heart of Richard the Lionheart, Duke of Normandy before he was King of England.
From the cathedral square, the rue du Gros-Horloge runs west between leaning half-timbered façades to the Gros-Horloge itself — a golden astronomical clock of the 14th century mounted on a Renaissance arch, still showing the phase of the moon and the day of the week. Climb the belfry for rooftops and spires, then continue to the place du Vieux-Marché, where a soaring cross marks the spot of Joan of Arc's execution on 30 May 1431. The modern church of Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc beside it, shaped like an upturned ship, shelters superb 16th-century stained glass saved from a bombed church; the Historial Jeanne d'Arc, set in the archbishop's palace where her trial was held, retells the story where it happened. Save time too for the abbey church of Saint-Ouen — Rayonnant Gothic at its purest, with a celebrated Cavaillé-Coll organ — and the eerie, beautiful Aître Saint-Maclou, a half-timbered plague ossuary unlike anything else in France.
Why did Monet paint Rouen Cathedral?
Between 1892 and 1894 Monet painted the west front of the cathedral in a series of more than thirty canvases, studying how light transformed the same stone at different hours and seasons. Rouen's Musée des Beaux-Arts displays one of them; others hang at the Musée d'Orsay in Paris.
How long do you need in Rouen?
A full day is ideal: the cathedral and Saint-Ouen abbey church in the morning, lunch in the old town, then the Gros-Horloge, the half-timbered lanes and the place du Vieux-Marché in the afternoon. A half-day covers the essentials at a brisker pace.
Where was Joan of Arc executed in Rouen?
On the place du Vieux-Marché, on 30 May 1431. A tall cross marks the spot, beside the modern church of Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc with its 16th-century stained glass; the Historial Jeanne d'Arc nearby retells her trial in the very palace where it took place.